Seven Steps to Adjusting a Recurve Bow

Adjustment is the process of matching equipment to the archer, such as arrows, bows, and arrow rests (including bowstrings, arrow side pads, etc.). It sounds like a complicated process, but in fact, according to the method described below, the adjustment of each component is very simple, so simple that you can get it done by shooting a few more arrows.

The first step is pre-adjustment

First, the arrow must have the correct hardness. If the hardness of the arrow is not appropriate, it is very difficult to adjust (it is possible to adjust the arrow slightly softer, but if it is too soft, it is basically difficult). The hardness can be checked according to the comparison table provided by the supplier. Of course, you have to know the tension of the bow first. If you don’t know, you can consult someone who knows or measure it with a bow ruler.

Note: Many bow rulers have a large error under 40 pounds. If possible, it is best to calibrate with static gravity.

Before adjusting, confirm the following things:

Confirm that the arrow is straight, the arrow feathers are appropriate, and the arrow tail is completely straight.

Confirm that the bow can be equipped with components that can complete regular shooting, such as the appropriate bowstring, the appropriate sight, the appropriate stabilizer, the arrow rest, the arrow side pad, etc.

Make sure the side pads do not obstruct the passage of the arrow feathers (for example, to ensure that the rotating arrow feathers pass smoothly).

Adjust the center of sight to the middle of the axis.

Adjust the side pad pressure to moderate.

Step 2 - Adjust the string length

The string length is also called string height and bow height.

Whether the string length is correct or not can be judged by the sound when shooting. First adjust the string length to the minimum value recommended by the manufacturer, and then use the method of tightening the bowstring to increase the string length in fixed steps (such as 1/16 or 1/8 inches, the smaller the more precise, but it takes more time). Note that both sides should be tightened at the same time to ensure that the position of the arrow nest remains unchanged. Shoot a few arrows and record the noise and vibration of the bow. If you have a digital tester, it is best. Then increase the string length, shoot and record, and repeat until the string length is adjusted to the maximum value recommended by the manufacturer. The quieter the environment, the better. It is best to ask someone to help listen and record (because you are busy shooting, don't be distracted).

The most suitable string length is the string length corresponding to the lowest bow noise and bow vibration.

Archery expert Marcel van Apeldoorn suggests that you can adjust the string distance in the following way:

The string distance change adjustment is the same as above, but when shooting, shoot at a target at a distance of 50-70 meters, and then record the vertical height and bow noise of each arrow. Note that the aiming point must be the same when shooting each arrow.

When shooting from the shortest string distance, the arrow impact point is relatively low at the beginning. At this time, the string distance is increased, and the arrow impact point will gradually increase. When the string distance increases to a certain value, if it continues to increase, the efficiency of the bow will decrease, and the arrow impact point will gradually decrease.

Note: It is very important here to ensure that the relative position of the arrow nest (arrow platform, etc.) does not change every time you shoot. Because the change of string distance may cause the change of the position of the arrow nest (the change of string distance is caused by the change of the projection distance of the bow arm). The final determination of the string distance should be the string distance value corresponding to the highest point of the arrow impact point on the target, because the bow is most efficient at this time.

Input energy = output energy + energy consumed by the bow itself

The maximum output energy means that the bow consumes the least energy, which is why the bow noise and bow vibration are the lowest.

Step 3 - Adjust the arrow nest

The purpose is to adjust the correct position of the arrow nest. If the arrow nest is not in the right position, the arrow will fly like a leaping dolphin, that is, the vertical vibration of the arrow tip and the tail is particularly large.

You can use the "paper adjustment" and "bare arrow method" methods to adjust the arrow nest:

Bare arrow method:

The principle of the bare arrow method is that when shooting bare arrows (arrows without feathers), because there is no stabilizing effect of feathers, it can more realistically reflect the state of the system.

Aim at the same point 15-20 yards away from the target, shoot at least 3 feathered arrows and 2 bare arrows, and observe the position of the arrow impact.

If the bare arrow impacts above the feathered arrow, it means that the arrow nest is too low; if the bare arrow impacts below the feathered arrow, it means that the arrow nest is too high,

(Sometimes when the bare arrow impacts slightly lower than the feathered arrow, it may not be that the arrow nest is too low, but a problem with the penetration.)

Step 4 - Adjust the center shooting

The purpose of adjusting the center shooting is to ensure that when the arrow flies off the bow, the two nodes of the arrow and the target are in a straight line. (See the section on nodes)

First find the center of the limbs. On each limb, place a mark with tape every 1 inch from the arrow rest.

Using a stabilizer or bow handle, hang the bow on a chair or other object.

Note: Do not put stress on the limbs.

Nock the arrow on the bowstring and look forward from the back of the bow handle. Use one eye to check the relative position of the arrow and bowstring by looking at the alignment line between the bowstring and the limb marks.

If the arrow is perfectly centered, the arrow and the string should be in a straight line, but this should not be adjusted because the fingers will cause bending.

Adjust the side pad so that the tip of the arrow protrudes one diameter of the bowstring, as shown below (for a right-handed archer), forming a center-out position. Once adjusted to this state, lock the side pad adjustment cap and ignore it.

Step 5 - Arrow Hardness Adjustment

If the hardness of the arrow is not appropriate, it will "fishtail" flight, that is, the tip and tail of the arrow will oscillate in the horizontal direction.

First, adjust the elasticity of the side pad to medium.

There are several ways to check for fishtailing, but the most reliable is the bare arrow method. Some shooters prefer the paper method, but the paper method is more suitable for compound bows and is unreliable for finger shooters because the fingers will cause the arrow to move sideways when it flies, which will cause various tearing conditions on the paper.

Below is an example of the method for right-handed shooters, and left-handed shooters can just do it the other way around.

Aim at the same point 15-20 yards from the target, shoot at least 3 feathered arrows and 2 bare arrows, and observe the arrow impact position.

If the bare arrow impacts to the right of the feathered arrow (soft), increase the pressure of the arrow side pad, or reduce the bow tension or reduce the weight of the arrow tip.

If the bare arrow impacts to the left of the feathered arrow (hard), reduce the pressure of the arrow side pad, or increase the bow tension or increase the weight of the arrow tip.

If you can't get a bare arrow to fletch around the fletched arrow, check if it's a fletching problem (see below). If the arrow shaft seems to be too active with the riser or something, it's definitely not adjusted.

Also remember to check the limb alignment. If the limb is too soft, the energy knob may be loose, for example, it has moved to the top, which can cause this result.

Step 6 - Fletching Flying

After the arrow shaft is basically adjusted, sprinkle some dry powder on it, sprinkle it on the lower 1/4 of the cross section of the arrow shaft, the fletching, the arrow rest, and the place where the arrow rest and the sight window are installed. Shoot the arrow after spreading (be careful not to mess up the powder). Check the powder line.

If fletching is hitting the arrow rest, rotate the arrow nock 1/32 and try again. Repeat this method until the problem is solved.

Check the arrow rest arm to see if it protrudes out of the arrow shaft when the arrow is on the arrow rest.

Try a smaller fletching

Try different settings (hard arrows), different arrow rests, etc.

If you have tried all of these and still can't get it to work, try a thinner side shim.

Step 7 - Hardness Compensation

If the arrow is too soft, you can reduce the tension, reduce the arrow tip weight, increase the number of strands in the bowstring, and reduce the string length. Or you can use a metal nock instead of dental floss.

If the arrow is too hard, you can increase the tension, increase the arrow tip weight, reduce the number of strands in the bowstring, and increase the string length.

Don't change the FOC of the arrow. Easton recommends the following FOC:

Aluminum arrows: 7-9%; ACCs 9-11%; ACEs 11-16%.